This has a compact, solid structure, stone fruit aromas and well-integrated acidity on the palate, which is felt above all when the wine gets warmer. Ripe apple and quince but also some fennel and dried herbs like sage fill your nose. Super juicy with fine and integrated acidity. Flavours of yellow fruits such as apricot develop. Somehow, perhaps due to its spiciness, this Furmint has something of a white Hermitage about it, only much cooler and juicier.

Burgenland only became part of Austria in 1921: Stefan’s grandparents grew up as Hungarians, and indeed in 2018 he discovered Furmint, Hungary’s classic white variety, in his grandfather’s vineyard. It does of course fit with everything that Kolfok stands for: uniqueness, authenticity, and a bit bonkers. At 300m of altitude, the vineyard has forty year old vines on mica schist, orthogneiss and quartz. It was whole bunch pressed, eight months of spontaneous fermentation and maturation without filtration or fining in three 250L oak barrels, occasional bâtonnage and minimal sulphur before bottling.