Kolfok Grüner Veltliner Vulkan Alte Reben 2018

From old vines that were planted together with Blaufränkisch in the 50s and 60s, half in heavy clay soils that give the wines depth and half from loose, sandy-calcareous soils which accentuate spice notes and bright fruit. The vines are old clones which produce dark yellow, thick-skinned berries which are not typical of the variety and give floral and spice nuances somewhat reminiscent of Hungarian varieties. Hand-harvested in mid-September in the early hours of the morning, poured directly into vats and gently crushed by foot. Pressed off skins after 6 hours into 500 or 600 litre local oak barrels. Spontaneous fermentation lasted until December. Only racked off lees shortly before bottling, unfiltered and with a slight addition of sulphur, in mid-September. A slight haze; aromatic, a slightly pithy texture, almost aggressively dry, salty with lemon acidity, lean, savoury and intense: would be just perfect with oysters.  A mere 11.5% alcohol, though you wouldn’t think it.