Bilancia is a well-chosen name. Before you’ve even seen a bottle you know two things: Italy is a significant influence, and the utmost importance is placed on balance and harmony. Husband and wife Lorraine Leheny and Warren Gibson establised Bilancia in 1997 in Hawkes Bay and at this time purchased the “La Collina” vineyard which is at the centre of their ambitions. The eponymous hill is terraced, on the north-facing slope of Roy’s Hill west of Hastings, protected from the cool southerly winds and bathed in sunshine during the growing season. The terraces are planted with Syrah and the lower, flat part of the vineyard with Viognier. The fruit for all the wines comes from Hawke’s Bay vineyards with additional Syrah from Gimblett Road Vineyards. Other varieties are purchased from quality outside sources; Glencoe Station south of Maraekakaho (for Pinot Noir) and Black Bridge Estate at Haumoana.
 These wines really do have balance and elegance. A slow, coolish fermentation captures the freshness of the Pinot Gris whose stone fruit and pear are matched with structure and texture. The Reserve is voluptuous and lush with a touch of residual sugar. It is from fruit selected from certain parcels, more heavily crop-thinned and harvested later than the above wine. The aroma is Turkish Delight and rose petals while the palate is rich and textural. The Viognier is entirely from the La Collina vineyard, hand-picked and whole bunch pressed, fermented in very old barrels. Very ripe fruit has resulted in a rich, stylish wine with citrus blossom and spice and a touch of oiliness. The 2005 Pinot Noir has classic varietal character; cherry and raspberry fruits with floral notes. The Syrah contains a little Viognier, aged in French oak for 16 months. The aroma is of ripe red fruits with characteristic black pepper whilst the palate shows floral, plum and raspberry characters with well integrated oak. La Collina also has a little Viognier. The winemaking philosophy for this wine is to preserve the very distinct vineyard character and fruit purity of La Collina along with support from new but low impact French oak. It is a no-holds barred, ultimate expression of Syrah.